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TRAINING ON

Glacier fieldwork safety and crevasse rescue techniques

Programmes

SG1 & AAA

Venue

Mountaineering training Centre, Kakani, Nuwakot

Date & Time

05 August 2024 to 10 August 2024

About the training

We are collaborating with  Nepal National Mountaineering Guide Association (NNMGA) to organise a refresher training on glacier safety and mountaineering rescue for our cryosphere researchers and members of partner organisations in the region.

This refresher course will introduce or reacquaint participants with basic mountaineering safety skills and rescue techniques such as knowledge of different knots, walking safely on the glacier and crevasse crossing technique, self-rescue from crevasses and rescuing another person from a crevasse etc.

Objectives

  • Ensure that those working on and around glaciers have knowledge of safety techniques on the glacier.
  • Improve self-confidence of researchers in difficult situations and ensure reliable glacier measurements.
  • Confidence in use of mountaineering equipment and techniques performing crevasse self-rescue and comrade-rescue.
  • Build capacity for cryosphere research professionals, and students from the HKH.

The training is organised by experienced cryosphere researchers from Action Area A: Managing cryosphere and water risks (AAA) under the Strategic Group -1: Reducing climate and environment risks and conducted by experts from Nepal Mountaineering Association.

Instructors

Lakpa Sherpa, International Federation of Mountain Guides (IFMGA)/Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA)

Pasang Kaji Sherpa, IFMGA/NNMGA

Gyalje Sherpa, IFMGA/NNMGA

Background

Data collection on glaciers and in challenging mountain terrain is a core activity for cryosphere related research. Fieldwork on glaciers often exposes researchers to challenges such as snowstorms, crevasses, steep and slippery glacier terrain. It is essential for researchers to understand how to avoid accidents, and to be self-sufficient if one occurs, including being in self-rescue and partner-rescue due to the remoteness of these locations. The safety of researchers and the data collection team is of paramount importance for the sustainability of fieldwork and long-term cryosphere monitoring.

Session summary

Opening session at ICIMOD Headquarters

AGENDA

7:00 Depart hotel to Kakani Training Centre

Basic mountaineering safety skills

Discuss participants’ expectations and previous experience in mountain safety (30 mins) in group.

Walking technique in alpine boots, managing heavy backpack on steep and uneven terrain.

Using harness and rigging system for glacier travel.

Use of rope- how to rope up and tie into the rope, making different knots: figure eight; belay; prussik. Practice rope coiling, coiling is the process of packing rope after use.

Rock /wall climbing technique- how to belay climbing partner, making natural and artificial anchors.

Glacier travel system including rope party, changing position.

Using ice axe; alpine boots; crampons. Crevasse rescue pulley system. How to change safety system, ascent by jumar; descent by belay device; traverse on fixed line.

Morning: Running belay on snow slope; use of snow anchors and ice screws. Descent by belay device and using prusik knot.

Afternoon: Practice rescue techniques such as lowering victims, transferring stretcher; lifting sled.

Test and evaluation of main topics, participant feedback and reflection.

Certificate distribution.

Departure from Kakani.